The Socialist Roots of the Bagel
At a recent , presidential hopeful Sen. Bernie Sanders was asked how his Jewish identity has affected his outlook and upbringing. Sanders, who is normally when it comes to his heritage, recalled the enormous impact of the Holocaust on his childhood.
鈥淚 think at a very early age, before my political thoughts were developed, I was aware of the horrible things that human beings can do to other people in the name of racism or white nationalism鈥攐r in this case, Nazism,鈥 he said.
Various journalists have the possible links between Sanders鈥檚 Jewishness and his politics鈥攆rom to investigating whether his may have informed his commitment to socialism. But for all the speculation over his heritage, pundits may have overlooked a distinctly Jewish鈥攁nd socialist鈥攅lement of his heritage: the bagel, which Sanders enjoys .
Like , the bagel鈥檚 storied history begins in Poland. The first mention of the bagel pops up in around 1610, in Jewish community ordinances from Krakow. As highlights in her book, The Bagel: The Surprising History of a Modest Bread, there are several theories surrounding the origin story of the bagel, with perhaps the most plausible pointing to restrictions on Jewish baking that forced the Jewish people to boil rather than bake their bread.
Whatever the real story, the rounded dough of mythic proportions is inextricably intertwined with Jewish history and socialism. Set against the backdrop of rapid political change sparked by the industrial revolution, bakeries and bagel shops for political activists during the 19th and 20th centuries. Bakeries, which flew below the radar of both concerned parents and the authorities, provided the perfect cover for those eager to debate politics and pick up new recruits. As a result, the evening lines of young workers were frequented by political activists, and socialist groups such as sprang up at the turn of the 20th century around bagels.
At around the same time, the bagel began making its way across the Atlantic as emigrants transported family bagel recipes to Montreal and New York City. In New York City, bagel bakeries were initially restricted to the Jewish areas of the Lower East Side, where bakers toiled in the shadows of boiling ovens for 14-to-20-hour days. Spurred by the unionizing of other groups in New York City, as well as immigrant bagel workers鈥 exposure to socialist and progressive ideals back in Russia and Eastern Europe, the (Local 338) was formed in 1907. It quickly gained momentum, representing all of the city鈥檚 30-some-odd bagel bakeries by the 1930s鈥攁nd it fiercely defended its workers, organizing strikes in 1951 (dubbed by The New York Times), 1957, and 1962.
The bagel鈥檚 status as the fuel of the proletariat, however, wouldn鈥檛 last. It would soon be supplanted by a new phase: mass production and commodification.
In 1963, inventor Daniel Thompson that could produce more than 2,000 bagels per hour. He shopped his invention around to bagel bakeries throughout the United States, finally receiving an eager response from Lender鈥檚 Bagels in New Haven, Connecticut.
The Lender family capitalized on the bagel machine and the new invention of frozen bagels, foreseeing a world of mass-produced bagels that could be stored and shipped around the country. With this change, Local 338, which had previously served as the chief arbiter of the bagel craft, was rendered obsolete. Trained bakers, who painstakingly labored in boiling kitchens and carried centuries of family recipes and know-how, were replaced by enterprising capitalists eager to mass-produce bagels as a base for sandwiches. Their efforts, according to author Matthew Goodman, corrupted the bagel鈥檚 鈥渟mall, flavorful, dense, and crusty鈥 form into 鈥渘ow precisely the opposite: huge, insipid, and pillowy soft.鈥
In 1971, hoping to guarantee their future pensions, the remaining members of Local 338 voted to join forces with Local 3, the New York chapter of the AFL-CIO鈥檚 Bakery Confectionery and Tobacco Workers International Union. Thus came the end of Local 338鈥攁 dissolution that took place amidst a , as unions across America began to dwindle and lose power in the face of global trade and cheap labor.
Now a ubiquitous staple in coffee chains and lunch spots, the bagel as we know it today has strayed drastically from its roots. The bagel shop鈥攐nce a communal space where families and friends would line up for blocks waiting for hot, fresh-from-the-oven bagels鈥攈as largely ceased to exist. And while independent bagel shops are still around, many are distinctly bourgeois鈥攐verpriced, flocked to by hungry for their next selfie, far removed from the cheap shtetl meal of tired workers. Others serve as relics of the past, employing to remind old bagel-goers of what the boiled bread used to be.
While independent bagel shops are still around, many are distinctly bourgeois鈥攐verpriced, flocked to by Instagram influencers hungry for their next selfie, far removed from the cheap shtetl meal of tired workers.
For bagel chains, remaining relevant means continually expanding selections of bagel types, spreads, and garnishes. The result? Menu items that would make your bubbe鈥檚 head spin鈥擡instein Bros. Bagels, for instance, offers everything from Spinach Florentine bagels to Jalape帽o Salsa Reduced Fat schmear. This trend, Occidental professor Peter Dreier notes, has : 鈥淭he simple bagel of Jewish immigrant ancestors has become a matter of what advertisers, manufacturers, and business school professors call 鈥榩roduct differentiation,鈥 which seeks to fragment the marketplace with choices rather than bind us together around a sense of tradition and common purpose.鈥
That鈥檚 not to say all hope is lost for the crusty bagel that bubbe used to pick up from around the corner. Perhaps it鈥檚 time for bagel lovers and worker justice advocates alike to remember what Local 338 stood and fought for鈥攁nd to rally behind a presidential candidate who promises to to labor unions. A leader who will the rights of immigrant laborers, and who recognizes the importance of community, heritage, and shared spaces鈥攚hether that鈥檚 the bagel shop, the local recreation center, or a . Perhaps a Polish Brooklynite, someone who might have made the immigrant bakers of Local 338 proud鈥攁nd who likes his bagels with lox.